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WHO WE AREWe are a 501(c)3 nonprofit organization, incorporated in the state of Missouri. We receive no government support, and are dependent solely upon donations for our financial support. All donations are tax-deductable. We have no paid employees, as we depend upon our dedicated volunteers for conducting the affairs of the Pulaski County Humane Society. If you find this information useful, please make a secure online donation. The animals of Pulaski county send their thanks! Pulaski County Humane Society PO Box 4032 Waynesville, MO 65583 Or call: 573-774-0067 We now offer safe and secure payments through PayPal; a quick and more convenient way to donate, become a member, or renew a membership. PayPal accepts all major credit cards as well as electronic checks, and you don't need a PayPal account to donate. | ||||||||||||||||
2010 MEETING SCHEDULE
*Annual Meeting & Member Appreciation Night Baymont Inn & Suites St. Robert, MO 6:30 PM. | ||||||||||||||||
MISSION STATEMENTMission Statement of the Pulaski County Humane Society
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PCHS GOALS:
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HOW TO OBTAIN SPAY / NEUTER CERTIFICATES:1. Officials of any legitimate municipal or county animal shelter in Pulaski County, Missouri may authorize one spay/neuter certificate per animal adopted out by the respective shelter. 2. Any resident of Pulaski County, Missouri may request one spay/neuter certificate per animal. Requests will be considered by the PCHS board on a case by case basis with financial need weighing heavily in the final determination. 3. A PCHS board member may present special circumstances and request one spay/neuter certificate per animal. Such requests will be considered by the PCHS board on a case by case basis with financial need weighing heavily in the final determination. 4. Any veterinarian practicing in Pulaski County, Missouri may request a spay/neuter certificate> for an animal whose owner has a financial need. Such requests will be considered by the PCHS board on a case by case basis. 5. On occasion, as funds permit, a limited number of spay/neuter certificates will be made available to any pet owner who is a resident of Pulaski County. | ||||||||||||||||
CALLING ALL ANIMAL LOVERSThe Animal Rescue Site offers free food donated every day to abused and neglected animals. It takes less than a minute to go to their site and click on "feed an animal in need" for free. This doesn't cost you a thing. Their corporate sponsors/advertisers use the number of daily visits to donate food to abandoned/neglected animals in exchange for advertising. Here's the web site; please pass it along to people you know: theanimalrescuesite.com | ||||||||||||||||
Be Kind To Animals Healing does come with loving. Not only for us, but for the precious pets. Please adopt from your local animal shelter. Owning a pet is a responsibility that should not be taken lightly. Neglect to meet a pet’s basic needs—including food, water, shelter and medical care—is a crime recognized by an ever-growing number of jurisdictions across the nation. If you know of an animal whose health is being compromised by neglect, please report it to your local authorities.  "Think occasionally of the suffering of which you spare yourself the sight." ~Albert Schweitzer  | ||||||||||||||||
"I'm Pet Friendly" License Plates Available Now
2009 Animal Protective Association, MO -- Now you can show off your love for pets as well as help reduce the unwanted pet population in Missouri. Get your new four-color specialty license plate with its proud statement “I’m Pet Friendly” today!!
$20 from the sale of each pet-friendly license plate is deposited into a fund that pays for spay and neuter services for dogs and cats across Missouri!
Get full details on how to order yours at the website of the Missouri State Humane Association (MoSHA): www.mostatehumane.org
The APA’s own Steve Kaufman, our Executive Director, is also Vice President of MoSHA and one of the people who worked most closely with the state to offer this plate. Steve says, "Spay/Neuter is the single most effective measure we have in reducing the number of unwanted pets that end up in shelters. These plates will allow us to raise the funds necessary to help reduce those numbers."
2009 H1N1 in Pets
Source: Center for Disease Control
What animals can be infected with the 2009 H1N1 virus? - In addition to humans, live swine and turkeys, we know a small number of ferrets (which are highly susceptible to influenza A viruses) and domestic cats have been infected with 2009 H1N1 virus. In addition, 2009 H1N1 virus infections were reported in 2 dogs in Beijing, China and in a cheetah in the United States. CDC is working closely with domestic and international public and animal heath partners to continually monitor reports of 2009 H1N1 in animals and will provide additional information to the public as it becomes available.How do pets become infected with 2009 H1N1? - All available information suggests that the ferrets and domestic cats infected with 2009 H1N1 infections acquired the virus through close contact with ill humans.
Can I get 2009 H1N1 influenza from my pet? - Available evidence suggests that transmission has been from ill humans to their companion animals. No evidence is available to suggest that animals are infecting humans with 2009 H1N1 virus.
What do I do if I am sick with flu-like symptoms and I have pets? - If you are sick with influenza-like-illness, take the same precautions with your pets that you would to keep your family and friends healthy:
* Cover your coughs and sneezesWhat should I do if I suspect my pet has 2009 H1N1 influenza virus? - If members of your household have flu-like symptoms, and your pet exhibits respiratory illness, contact your veterinarian.
* Wash your hands frequently
* Minimize contact with your pets until 24 hours after your fever is gone
Is there a vaccine available for my pet? - Currently, there is not a licensed and approved 2009 H1N1 vaccine for pets. (There is a canine influenza vaccine, which protects dogs from the H3N8 canine flu virus, but it will not protect pets against the 2009 H1N1 virus, and the H3N8 vaccine should not be used in any species other than dogs.)
How serious is this disease in pets? - Pet ferrets with naturally occurring 2009 H1N1 infection have exhibited illness similar in severity to that seen in ferrets exposed to seasonal influenza viruses and to 2009 H1N1 virus in laboratory settings. Clinical signs exhibited have included sneezing, inactivity, and weight loss. Of the reported cases, most of the pets have recovered fully with supportive care, although some have died.
Ami James Medsker’s New Year Resolution
SOURCE: Geniece Medsker1. I will not eat cat poop or dead animals I see on the side of the road on our walks or runs.
2. I will not lick my human's face after eating poop or dead carcass.
3. I do not need to suddenly stand straight up when you are standing over me, thus knocking you off balance.
4. My head does not belong in the refrigerator or the dishwasher.
5. I will attempt to not be grumpy when someone or one of my siblings is sitting on my spot on the couch.
6. Take time from my busy schedule to stop and smell behinds and play with my siblings.
7. Grow opposable thumb; break into pantry or refrigerator; decide for MYSELF how much food is "too" much.
8. The garbage collector or mail carrier is NOT stealing our stuff.
9. I will NOT run at the stick or ball until I see it leave your hand.
The High Points
* Obesity is extremely common in our pets, for the same reasons it is common in people—too much food, too little exercise
* Dry commercial diets don't help the situation, because we tend to feed the bowl, not the animal—we have to actually measure amounts and count calories
* Canned or homemade foods help us with portion control, due to their expense and also their water content, or because they are like an "Atkins" type diet
* Using Kong toys and Buster cubes with bits of food in them helps keep your pet occupied but without getting many calories in return
* Veggies for dogs and catnip for cats are low-cal treats
Introduction - Did you know that the most common form of malnutrition in the USA is obesity? Our pets have followed suit; in one study, 21.4% of dogs surveyed were obese, and only 60.3% were at optimum weight. Some animals are more likely to become corpulent—Labradors, Dachsunds, Beagles, Shelties and Basset hounds are particularly prone, as are many neutered animals and some pets fed table scraps. Cats fed free choice easily become obese.
We all know the causes of obesity—too little exercise and too many calories. There are two other factors probably at work here. An individual's personality may affect his metabolism: placid, relaxed animals will gain weight more easily than pets with a lot of nervous energy. Genetic make-up also plays a large role. Although "hormones" are not a common cause (as you may have heard a friend or two say), illnesses such as hyperadrenocorticism, hypothyroidism, or over-medication with steroids may be associated with weight gain. As you can appreciate, some pets are simply going to lose and maintain their weight better than others.
Unfortunately, the pet food industry is partially to blame. Pet foods come in a wider variety of choices, for less money, than ever before. We have become accustomed to feeding over-large amounts of inexpensive food, filling big bowls and thinking that we are making our pets happy. "Weight loss" diets perpetuate the myth by allowing us to continue to feed large amounts of food that is just lower in calories. In truth, if pets ate "human-quality" foods with plenty of lean meat and less grain, the food would be less expensive and pets would be less likely to become overweight.
Obesity is a frightening disease because in addition to causing serous discomfort and body dysfunction, it exacerbates other diseases. Obese animals may have trouble breathing. Obese animals with heart or lung disease can have deadly trouble. Arthritic animals undergo needless discomfort when carrying extra fat around. Obesity is known to cause liver disease, hypertension, constipation, heat intolerance, and increased risk under anesthesia. With all these problems, it is easy to see why obese animals do not have life expectancies as long as usual. In addition, lean animals have better immune systems and don't form tumors as readily.
Getting started - How can you tell if your pet is overweight? The best rule of thumb is to feel around the ribs—if you can find them. Cats should look like a straight line from above and the sides. Dogs at optimum weight should have a waist, and you should be able to feel their shoulders as well (some dogs, like some people, actually accumulate fat in the shoulder area, making them appear to have a waist while they are, in fact, overweight). If you cannot find ribs, but can grab handfuls of fat, it is time to consider a weight loss program. Ask your vet to teach you how to do a body condition score, which is a semi-objective way for you to track your pet's progress.
When embarking on a weight loss program, you should encourage your pet to exercise as well as cutting his calories, although it is advisable to have your veterinarian complete a physical exam and to start slowly, just as people should do at first.
Problems with weight loss diets - Many veterinarians recommend commercial weight loss diets, and some of these work so well that they are available by prescription only. Dogs and cats do lose weight with these diets, if fed the proper amount, and if the animal's metabolism can handle the increased grain protein and fiber provided by the diet. One common problem that we see is a gradual degeneration in coat quality. Many animals tend to stay overweight and develop dry flaky coats (making animals on weight loss diets easy to spot). These low fat diets may take their toll on the animal's coat, but problems can go deeper than that.
Wet food, less of it - There are quite a few pets, however, who don't seem to lose weight well using low fat diets anyway. Recent research has indicated that increasing dietary fiber may NOT suppress appetite, and holistic veterinarians have found that these animals sometimes do better on canned food (even of the maintenance variety) or on home-prepared diets. In addition, if the protein in the diet is too low, the animal may somehow sense that, and want amounts above the label recommendation in trying to fulfill their protein requirements.
Perhaps the fact that canned or homemade foods contain more water, and so the calories are "diluted" out, is responsible for this finding that some pets lose weight and feel great eating them. Some pets may simply need more meat, and less grain, in their diets. Perhaps the secret is that canned foods force the owner to turn to "meal feeding," instead of allowing free choice feeding. In any case, try to find a canned diet that is high quality and free of preservatives. If you have a pet that is already on a weight loss diet, DO NOT switch back to maintenance diets; simply use the canned form of a weight loss diet.
Snacks and Entertainment - Snacks are an important part of life for some pets. Unfortunately, many "snack" foods for pets are fattening junk food like human favorites tend to be. Good alternatives for dogs include a variety of vegetables, while cats sometimes like fruits or catnip.
If your cat or dog begs for food, try diverting that behavior to something more constructive. When they beg, start a game with the laser pointer for your cat, or throw a ball for the dog. Dogs can be kept busy for hours with a Buster Cube—you can hide food in it, and as the dog works with it, rolls it around and in general worries the Cube, it occasionally releases pieces of food.
Obesity is a serious medical and nutritional problem, but consulting with your veterinarian can help you improve the quality of your pet's life for years to come.
Interesting Facts About Horses:
- A horse is a member of the "equus" family. This word comes from ancient Greece and means quickness.
- More than 350 breeds of ponies and horses can be found.
- A height of a horse can be measured with the hand, where each hand equals four inches.
- If you want to know how old a horse is, all you need to do is to count its teeth.
- An average horse’s head weighs 11.84 pounds.
- 10 Pounds is the weight of a horse’s heart.
- A horse is able to drink 10 gallons of water per day.
- Horses use their facial expressions to communicate. Their moods can be gauged with the help of their nostrils, eyes and ears.
- Horses spend more energy lying down.
- The hoof of a horse is like a fingernail; it keeps on growing and needs to be clipped.
- Any kind of mark, which appears on the forehead of a horse, is called a star, irrespective of whether it resembles one!
- Horses usually live for around 20 to 25 years. Some of them can live up to 5 years more.
- In most cases, the foal is born at night, away from danger and prying eyes.
- After being born, it only takes a foal about 1-2 hours to stand up and walk.
- A horse has two blind spots; one is located directly in front of them while the other is located directly behind.
10 Things to Know about Deworming Your Horse
Understanding parasite resistance is the keyto keeping a healthy herd.
Source: Hoyt Cheramie, DVM, MS, manager, Merial Veterinary Services
Parasite control is an important part of every equine health care program. Today, it’s no longer enough just to know what worms are bugging your horse. Now, you need to understand the basics of parasite resistance to ensure your program is effective.
If you already have enough to keep track of, don’t worry — veterinarians are your ally in keeping all the information straight. They also will help with developing and monitoring your parasite control program to ensure effectiveness and to keep resistance at bay.
When considering your parasite control program, there are 10 key things to keep in mind:
1. Resistance is a real threat. With no new parasite control products on the horizon, it’s important to start protecting our ability to control parasites by keeping current products effective.
2. Know the product class. Nearly all equine parasite control products belong to one of three different classes: benzimidazoles, macrocyclic lactones and pyrantel pamoates.
3. Use what works. It’s important to know what class you’re using because many experts believe macrocyclic lactones is the only class of medications that is capable of controlling key parasites in adult horses. For example, ivermectin is part of the macrocyclic lactones class.
4. Don’t rotate without reason. Many experts believe rotating through a series of different drugs will mask the effects of using products with resistance problems. In fact, information shows rotating through different parasite control products does not appear to slow the development of resistance.
5. A few worms are OK. In the past, the goal of parasite control programs was to completely eliminate all parasites. However, today’s programs should be focused on reducing transmission of parasites, keeping worm burdens below harmful levels and treating clinically affected horses. Maintaining a population of parasites that can be killed by dewormers is an important factor in delaying the development of resistant parasites.
6. Get the information. By performing a fecal egg count reduction test (FECRT), your veterinarian can help identify the key parasite threats on your premises, if the products you are using are working and what products should be included in your parasite control program.
7. Know what’s on your farm. The species and amount of parasites attacking horses can vary by geographic area. For instance, tapeworms may be found more frequently in the upper Midwest or southeastern parts of the United States, and less frequently on the west coast.
8. Get it done right. FECRTs can easily be misinterpreted if samples are collected, handled or analyzed improperly. Be sure these tests are properly conducted by veterinarians or by independent, reputable laboratories.
9. Treat the “problem” horses. It’s estimated that 20 percent to 30 percent of the horses on a farm put out about 80 percent of the parasite eggs, while other horses tend to shed fewer worm eggs whether treated or not. By focusing treatments on horses shedding most of the worm eggs, you can help maintain a population of susceptible parasites, reduce the risk of resistance and help keep horses healthy.
10. Guarantee success. We are all concerned about keeping our horses healthy, and the best way to make certain your product works is to look for products with a 100 percent product satisfaction guarantee.
With several different kinds of parasites waiting to attack horses and confusion surrounding the resistance problems of some parasite control products, it is harder than ever to be sure all key parasite threats are controlled. Keep these 10 tips in mind and your veterinarian’s number handy, and you’ll be set for the new era of parasite control.
If you already have enough to keep track of, don’t worry — veterinarians are your ally in keeping all the information straight. They also will help with developing and monitoring your parasite control program to ensure effectiveness and to keep resistance at bay.
When considering your parasite control program, there are 10 key things to keep in mind:
1. Resistance is a real threat. With no new parasite control products on the horizon, it’s important to start protecting our ability to control parasites by keeping current products effective.
2. Know the product class. Nearly all equine parasite control products belong to one of three different classes: benzimidazoles, macrocyclic lactones and pyrantel pamoates.
3. Use what works. It’s important to know what class you’re using because many experts believe macrocyclic lactones is the only class of medications that is capable of controlling key parasites in adult horses. For example, ivermectin is part of the macrocyclic lactones class.
4. Don’t rotate without reason. Many experts believe rotating through a series of different drugs will mask the effects of using products with resistance problems. In fact, information shows rotating through different parasite control products does not appear to slow the development of resistance.
5. A few worms are OK. In the past, the goal of parasite control programs was to completely eliminate all parasites. However, today’s programs should be focused on reducing transmission of parasites, keeping worm burdens below harmful levels and treating clinically affected horses. Maintaining a population of parasites that can be killed by dewormers is an important factor in delaying the development of resistant parasites.
6. Get the information. By performing a fecal egg count reduction test (FECRT), your veterinarian can help identify the key parasite threats on your premises, if the products you are using are working and what products should be included in your parasite control program.
7. Know what’s on your farm. The species and amount of parasites attacking horses can vary by geographic area. For instance, tapeworms may be found more frequently in the upper Midwest or southeastern parts of the United States, and less frequently on the west coast.
8. Get it done right. FECRTs can easily be misinterpreted if samples are collected, handled or analyzed improperly. Be sure these tests are properly conducted by veterinarians or by independent, reputable laboratories.
9. Treat the “problem” horses. It’s estimated that 20 percent to 30 percent of the horses on a farm put out about 80 percent of the parasite eggs, while other horses tend to shed fewer worm eggs whether treated or not. By focusing treatments on horses shedding most of the worm eggs, you can help maintain a population of susceptible parasites, reduce the risk of resistance and help keep horses healthy.
10. Guarantee success. We are all concerned about keeping our horses healthy, and the best way to make certain your product works is to look for products with a 100 percent product satisfaction guarantee.
With several different kinds of parasites waiting to attack horses and confusion surrounding the resistance problems of some parasite control products, it is harder than ever to be sure all key parasite threats are controlled. Keep these 10 tips in mind and your veterinarian’s number handy, and you’ll be set for the new era of parasite control.